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Lilac Care:
Lilac Planting |
Lilac Care |
Lilac Pruning
Planting Recommendations for Lilacs
Spring planting is reccommended in areas with severe winters or on sites that are exposed to harsh winds. Planting in
the early spring, together with good care during the first growing season, will result in the strongest plant for
survival through a hard winter. Fall planting (August 15 - October 15) can be considered in areas with mild winters.
Lilac roots will grow until the ground is frozen so fall planting will give added root establishment to support growth
in the top of the plant.
The amount of work required to plant a lilac will depend on the soil condition. A good rule is to have the soil tested
and if it is low in pH or fertility, the whole area can be adjusted before planting. It is always better to treat the
area than to try to modify only the planting hole. The latter can create a "pot" situation where roots will circle
in the hole and cause strangulation.
Drainings are also best handled on an area basis. A "pot hole" dug in pure clay will fill with water and drown the
plant put in it. Lilacs are sensitive to wet soils so there must be good drainings if they are to survive. To do the
actual planting, dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots without bending or breaking them. Remove any metal or
plastic covering that could restrict new root growth and cut or "feather" out any circling roots to prevent strangulation
as the roots increase in size. This is especially important if container grown plants are used. Set the plant just
slightly deeper than it grew in its previous site and work the topsoil in around the roots. This step is important,
particularly if the plant is grafted. The graft union, which is located near the old soild line, should be below
the soil line but if the roots are set more than 2 to 3 inches lower than their original setting, the plant will be slow
establish and the roots may die from lack of oxygen.
Fill the hole with the soil removed in the original digging. Do not add organic matter or import new soil since these
procedures will hinder root movement out into the surrounding soil. If there is a striking difference between the ball
and the surrounding soil, a small amount of organic matter e.g. peat moss can be added to create a transition zone to
encourage roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.
After working in the topsoil, fill the hole with water and let it drain away. This will settle the soil around the roots
and collapse air pockets. Then add more topsoil to the final level. A small saucer dam can be set up around the root zone
so that subsequent waterings will stay in the root area. A mulch of straw, bark, or stone around the plant will help to
reduce weeds, to retain moisture, and to prevent frost heaving.
Keep the area around the newly set plant free from other vegetation. This will dramatically speed its establishment. Weeds,
tall grass, or even lawn grass close to the newly planted lilac will win the competition for water and food. The result
will be a very weak plant which grows slowly for several years. There should be at least one foot of cleared space around
the new lilac, but even more is desirable.
The soil moisture level in the first growing season is very important. Drought stress, even for a short time, will severely
restrict new shoot growth and retard plant establishment. Lilacs are slow growers for the first year or two after planting
and neglect during the first year will make this even more evident.
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